Nanxiang Steamed Bun in Seoul

Nanxiang Steamed Bun in Seoul


By Mary Crowe
Contributing Writer

The basement of the Seoul Finance Center houses an assemblage of restaurants worthy and demanding of expense accounts. For these reasons I’ve often steered clear of the SFC mall.

However, the opening of Seoul’s second Nanxiang Steamed Bun restaurant and a recent trip to Shanghai’s Yuyuan Gardens branch, the birthplace of xiaolongbao (soup dumplings), found me in SFC’s brick underbelly.

Humble surroundings these are not. Orange accents, and birch furnishings crash against frosted mirrors, partitioning off private dining areas. Servers, sporting mandarin collars, keep a respectable and professional distance from diners.

Outfitted with clip on microphones and ear pieces, and answering to managers in dark suits, had me wondering if this could be Shanghai’s notorious crime ring, the Green Gang reincarnate? Evident when our server, in a low intimidating voice asserted, “I don’t think this will be enough for your table,” after we placed our order. Was that a command? A concern? A threat?

Restaurant interior

Dinner began with a sampling of homemade pickles and a spicy cabbage slaw kissed with sesame oil. An order of hot and sour soup, 8,000 won favored the sour side. But the finely sliced tofu, bamboo and bits of egg were a satisfying start to the meal, despite being overpriced.

While crab, steamed fish and other entrees make their way into the a la carte menu, take your cue from what made the 100 year old Chinese restaurant famous and compose your meal with a medley of dumplings.

The steamed pork soup dumplings, 8,000 won are a dead copy of the Shanghainese original. The toothsome skin encapsulated a savory pork meatball resting in a salty broth, and all six were devoured in a matter of minutes.

Before we get in too deep, let’s take time for a quick lesson on how to properly eat xiaolongbao. Keep in mind that these soup dumplings refer to the piping hot liquid inside the skin (not won-ton soup with floating dumplings found in many American Chinese restaurants). Popping one into your mouth upon table arrival will result in a rush of blistering broth, scalding as it squirts in your mouth and dribbles down your chin. Guaranteeing an unsightly eating related injury. An effect our table coined, “lava mouth.”

To avoid the aforementioned, give your dumpling a quick dip in the vinegar and ginger essenced soy sauce, followed by a cooling off period in the bowl and soupspoon provided. Puncturing the dumpling before eating is a no-no. Letting any of the rich broth escape ruins the delicate balance of taste and texture.

Seoul’s branches of Nanxiang offer regional varieties that shouldn’t be passed up. The chicken and ginseng dumplings, 11,000 won, offer a spin off the popular samgyetang (ginseng chicken soup) rich with herbal accents and minced chicken. Pine mushroom and pork dumplings 14,000 won are as elegant as a dumpling can be. Finely diced pine mushrooms soften the salty pork flavor, and are addictively delicious.

Along with the standard meatfilled offerings, don’t miss the steamed buns with sticky rice. Plump grains of rice intermixed with ground pork pleasantly fulfill, with a sweet flavor reminiscent of a Thanksgiving stuffing.

Drinks are varied, but you need to look no farther than a cool Tsingtao, 6,000 won. Domestic beers are on hand for 5,000 won, rounded out by sodas, juices, and an exorbitantly expensive wine list. Nanxiang’s high prices are hard to stomach.

Calculating exactly how much each dumpling in a steamer of six costs, will have your pocket book begging you to clean your plate ? though the efficient service, chic setting, and filling dumplings should make the bill easier to swallow.